3D model robot- part 6: designing backgrounds

Now that I’ve completed painting my model, the next part is to decide what my background will be for my project. Using mediums that can give a bright and professional presentation when applied to my background designs.
I’ve decided to do two different background designs for my final design robot as a scenic background. I used pro marker pens as my medium of use, but I did two different techniques for the designs. One as a detailed pro marker background, and the other in ink drawing and on purpose contamination colouring.

I then made duplicate photocopies of the original picture, altering them for effects and tone to see which two of both designs  will be used in the photography process. 

Las Vegas on Mars






Moon outpost 






Currently I’m in the process of choosing which design effect picture I’ll choose for my background photography work. I’ll post an update on my decision either later on today, or tomorrow. 

3D model robot- part 5: painting and testing techniques

Here’s part five of the 3D model design process, this time I’m focusing on starting to paint the model in plain basecoating. Then I’ll be building this up in several parts, building layers until I get a professional painted model.


Carrying on from part 4, I’ve completely basecoated the model in gloss white spray paint. Whilst it was sort of successful, part of the paint came off due to my incompitence to realise that part of the newspaper sheet was stuck onto the paint whilst drying.


The 135 degree pipes legs were too tedious to glue onto the model, so I’ve made an alternative to use three liquid washer caps. These were more useful to use as they can be glued easily, and they can balance the model without support. 

Now that the whole model is basecoated, I then decided to choose what paints I’ll use for my colour schemes. Using techniques and processes that I’ve previously used in past projects, that are suitable for this project.

Below is my collective picture progress on my painting process for the model.

I’m pretty much impressed with the finished outcome, the model looks really impressive. I tried to keep it in the project theme of 1950’s sci-fi art, not making it too modern in appearance.
My next and final step is to create a background for my model, so I can do some photography work as a final project presentation. I’ll posting updates on the project at some point next week.

[note: I’ve been very busy from a lot of prep work for my art and exams, so I haven’t had much time to do much blogging of late. Hopefully once I’ve done all that, I’ll be going back to posting updates on my Clan pestilence collection, and my on going narrative blog series ‘The Dovaskar legacy’. Hope you guys have a good day 😊]

3D model robot- part 4 [update]

This is just an update blog on what I’ve done so far with the final design model. 

So the pipes I used on the model weren’t as weightless as I thought they were, as they couldn’t hold onto the plant pot by the glue and kept tear off from the bonding. The solution was to use liquid gel cases as the loot of the model, which as you can see from the pic above I’ve only glued one at the moment.

I’ve made extra effort to glue the pots by making a glue barrier around the middle section, just tosecure  the put together. This has resulted in a more stable bonding of the pots to join together, although I’ll need to sand off the glue edgings to make the surface more smoother.

The spray paint process didn’t go as well as I thought, I only had half a small can left of gloss white, which as you can see from the picture above, hasn’t covered much. So I’m hopefully going to get more gloss white spray paint to completely finish off the basecoat stage.

This Friday I’ll be posting part 4 of ‘The Dovaskar Legacy’, I couldn’t do last Friday due to a really busy week, sorry about that. But hopefully I can post part 4 on schedule this time. 

3D model robot- part 4: Improving and creating final design


This part will explain my process from what I’ve learnt from my test design, and starting the process for creating my final design. Whilst the design will be similar, there are a few improvements to the methods and process into creating the final design.

So I started out by looking through my  test design work and the photo above, noting down on the methods/ process/ techniques/ materials  that I used to create the model. I looked at areas that I needed to improve on, and areas that worked well, which can be carried over to my final design.

I felt that tapeing the model together was okay for a prototype practice, but the overal appearance of the model didn’t do it any justice for professional quality. To improve on this, I decided to glue gun parts, so they bond together more effectively, with no visible tampering.

Another area that I felt that needed improving was the legs, as they were really heavy to balance the robots body. The parts were too long, and they kept coming off their tape bonding. So from this, I’ve decided that having just three 135 degree angle pipes on will make the model more balanced on its own without support bars.

Once I’ve seen what I need to do, I made a sketch design of my final model design, using a realistic concept to create and more simplistic alterations to create on the model [note: I haven’t done a picture on the sketch design yet, but I’ll be updating this post later on when I have finalised it]. Once I had a clear visual picture of the design plan, I started to collect my materials and tools that I need to get ready to create my final design model.

Below are the materials I’m using to do the creation process:

• 1x tikka masalas lid cut into two identical parts

• 1x tikka masala bowl, cut the top into a open lid, then cut it into a big circle• 1x plastic shower washer• 3x 135 degree pipes• 2x plant pots

• 3x washers• LED lights (five lights)

Once I’ve collected all the materials for the project, I then started the process on creating my model. Below is a process guid to my build up on my model.

Part 1: I made a small hole in the middle of the top plant pot, I matched this to my shower washer hole to get an accurate fit. This will be the hole for my light to come through, acting as the robots active eye.
Part 2: as I’ve mentioned above, I made a hole for the washer, matching that to the one on the plant pot. I used a hobby knife, and carefully screwed a small hole shape, making sure I don’t make it too big and out of place.

Part 3: once I’ve done making an accurate hole fit, I threaded a light through the hole, to see if it can fit through easily, but not to easily loose. Luckily it fitted just right, so I added the shower washer ring and one washer ring together to create the robots eye.

Once I felt satisfied with the overal result, I removed the light, washer and shower washer for a later stage when I’ll re-thread it back through.

Part 4: I made alteration to the tikka lid like my previous blog post on the project, making two identical lid shapes. Theses will act as the eye lids for the robots eye, so it can add some realistic visual presentation to the model.

Part 5: for the tikka masala bowl, I cut the bottom of the bowl with a hobby knife to create a hole on the bottom of the bowl. I flipped it over so I can use it as the robots top part of its head, showing its electrical lights on top, as though it’s the robots man made brain.

Part 6: the washer on the 135 degree pipes will be used as the ring of the outer eye, just to give some more visual interest to the robots eye. This will be glue gunned to the eye, since the material for the pipe washer is easy to bond with plastic.

Part 7: once all of the practice parts were done, I glued the plastic shower washer on first, so that I can fit the washer rings and pipe washer on without any tedious obstructions. Once they’ve bonded with the plastic pot, then I glued the first eye lid onto the model. Carefully placing the lid on without being burnt by the glues heat.

I then. Made a small plastic card rectangle and glued that on the right side of the model, with two washer rings glued on it. This will add some detail on the robot, since it looked plain in its current stage.

Part 8: for the pipes, I glued all three of them on a triangle position, as visualised in my sketch design. The process was tedious, as one of the legs kept falling off from their glued position, so I’ll try and see if I can find a way to correct that problem. 

At some points I’ll be adding some ball parts to the legs as sphere, this will give the illusion that it moves on wheeled balls, rather than feet.

Part 9: I added the second eye lid on the lower half of the eye, using the same technique as the top eye lid. I then glued the tikka masala bowl on top of the bowl using a glue gun, carefully keeping it on the top pot lid in place. 


Part 10: For the LED lights, I threaded the lights through the lower pot, and out through the same hole position on the top pot. One of the light is inside the pot to be threaded as the eye light.

Once the eye light was tapped, I taped the battery pack on the bottom plant pot, keeping it in place and out of visual view of he model.

Part 11: once all the lights are threaded and are kept in place securely, I carefully glued the two pots together with accuracy to bond without massive gaps in view. I had a tedious task of correcting this step a few times due to the glue drying too quickly, but eventually I was able to bond the pots together.

So far the overal model looks really good, I’m getting confident in the project so far, and I have no doubts on that the tricky parts have been completed. My only note on the process is that the glue gun was very awkward to use, it’s very tedious trying to get any glue to come out, and it drys very quickly if the process is stalked to a few minutes.

In part 5 for building my 3D model robot design, I’ll be using a spray paint process, and doing some acrylic painting on the model, using different techniques and process on the model.

3D model robot-part 3: test design part 3


Continuing on from the last part in my 3D model design series, this time I’ve spray painted the whole body and legs seperatly, to see how the model looked once basecoated.

The tape didn’t really go down well, it looked odd from the basecoat. I originally thought it might look smooth but wrinkled once I applied the spray paint, but from the outcome it doesn’t seem to meet my expectations.


However, I was pleased that the top half of the model looks really good in the basecoat. I liked how the tikka lid and the eye stand out a lot more, it looked really smooth as a finishing touch that blended all the parts together. 

I’m also pleased that my sprayed leg parts have overal looked good, surprisingly it was the one that wasn’t sanded that did well. The sanded one looked a bit too rough and scratched to suit my ideal design choice, but I’ll keep it as a reference for future planning.



So for my planning on my final design, I’ll super glue the parts, rather than tapeing them together. That way I’ll have a professional presentation appearance to the model, with some alterations to help it look believable.

Next part will be about the what I’ve Learnt from the test design, and how can transfer improvements to the final design planning.

The Dovaskar Legacy- part 3: Allthenius, King of ashes


Today I’ve added a new model to the army collection, a Wight king. He will be leading the Deathrattle units, and close ties to Dovaskars legion.

 Funnily enough, this model is actually an old blood bowl model I found, whilst I was looking around at a charity shop. I added a shield and sword from the skeleton warriors kit, just to give him the weapons that his warscroll describes. 

So without further or do, I present part 3 in ‘The Dovaskar Legacy’ series, enjoy!

Before the fall of the Red Scarlet dynasty, Allthenius was the first to establish his empire long ago. He was born in the snowy valleys as a Frost Aelf, a race that are born to use frost magic and ice weapons.

He was one of the many Frost Aelfs to travel through the ice valleys of Valykris, and through a realm gate into the realm of Ghur. There he set about building plans for a city of pure iron, a vast bastion of grey against the amber grasses of the Dawn crest mountain.

Years down the line saw the King rule his kingdom with superiority and determination. His rulership was renowned to be fair for all races who live in his kingdom. But he can also be as stern as iron, fighting on the battlefields with a roar of frost breath from his majestic voice.

But alas, it wouldn’t be long before he was fadeing from old age, and fell into deaths grasp. He passed on his mantle of responsibility as King to his only son and heir to the throne, Grendilis. 

From then on, the kingdom was a shadow of its former self. All of the nobles were divided and accused each other for their different ideologies for how the kingdom should be ruled. But all that changed when the Age of Chaos arrived, Nurgles daemon legions decimated everything that Allthenius had built, to ashes. 

Years later, Allthenius awoke from his deep slumber with wide blazing blue eyes. He roared as he broke his tomb open ,and limped out from the crypt to see what was outside, or what was left of it.

All that was left was ashes, apart from a mass monolith citadel in the distance, that was once his castle. It was once made from pure iron, but now it was corrupted with Nurgles foul blessings and corruptions.

Allthenius saw a looming shadow over him, and turned to see who or what was blotting out the green murky sky. A spectral being in form of a dark fog of pure dark magic spoke to him from beyond. The being introduced himself as Dovaskar, which Allthenius knew that name and bowed before his new master. 

They both made an alliance that day, the King was given a title, Allthenius, King of ashes. He and his master, as well as Dovaskars generals are planning their war against those who took their land, and to take back the monolith citedel from Nurgle.


| Next up- part 4: The summoner brothers of Greykeep. Friday 11th May |

The Dovaskar Legacy- part 2: The Red Queen


Today, present part two of The Dovaskar Legacy series, exploring one of Dovaskars ethereal allies, the mysterious Red Queen. Enjoy!

Greykeep is known for its myths and lost legends of old, including some legends that still roam the village to this day. But none are so vastly infamous as the lady of mystery herself, ‘The Red Queen’.

Her real name has been lost to the ages, since the Age of chaos began. All records of her true identity were destroyed during the fall of the Red Scarlet dynasty. All the souls of Greykeep are those who had fallen during the fall, many know each other from the past, but they have no knowledge of the accursed queen.

They say she my have been a Unknown necromancer who was killed by a hunting party of Nurgle spawns. Others say she may have been a hidden royal bloodline, hiding away as an embarrassment to her kin if her true origins were revealed. 

But alas, these are but theories from the lost, only Dovaskar knows of ‘The Red Queens’ origins. When war comes to the Ghur, in the ruins of the dead dynasty, the Queen will shriek her voice, and tear those who stand in her way.


|| Next up-part 3: Allthenius, King of ashes. Monday 9th May ||

Grey day

My afternoon was quite busy and not that great to be honest. So I’ve been doing some digital art nearly all tonight to get my mind off today’s troubles.

Whilst I’m only just getting into the basics of digital art, I liked the picture, and felt that I needed to post it. I themed it around my day in a personification of how I felt, And that’s when I’ve thought of an appropriate name for this post, Grey day.

I’ll hopefully be able to post part 3 on the 3D model robot blog post series on Friday, if all goes well.

||If you have any questions, post a comment and I’ll reply back as soon as I can, thank you.||

3D model robot- part 2: testing part 2

Carrying on from the last post, I’ve added the second part to the test design experiment phase. This part focuses on the top part of the model, adding parts to the head of the robot and the legs.

Materials:

One tikka curry packaging lid and bowl.

135 degree pipes and 34mm pipes (x4 each)
One pipe washer.

Making the head:

Step 1: cut a small hole in the tikka packaging bowl, and tape it on top of the upper plant pot. Make sure the LED lights are within the bowl, and tape the bowl tightly so that its not easily loosen.

Step 2: cut the lid in two halfs, and snip the two ends in an angle. Also, cut the top of the lid in a half moon shape.

Step 3: tape the first half of the lid on the top pot securely, make sure it’s firmly in place by the tape. 

Step 4: glue gun the other lid onto power of the eye, as though it’s an eyelid. The reason why I’ve did the two lids differently was because I wanted to see what surface would suit my test design. I’ve done three surfaces (1: tape 2: sanded lid plastic 3: clear plastic lid) to test which surface would be suitable when applying spray paint.
Step 5: add the pipe washer into the eye, this will help to define the eye a lot more. 

Making the legs:

Step 1: make two identical sized pipes (saw them to your preferred measurement), and secure the 135 degree pipes at both ends of your two pipes (I’ve sanded one leg to do the same technique as explained in step 4 on making the head.)

Step 2: like the plastic lids, tape the legs onto the lower plant pot, until they are securely in place. It can be fiddler to do, so take your time when doing this part. 

Step 3: tape two identical pipes together, these will act as the base for the robot to sit on.

Overal design look:

Now that all of the parts are added,  my 3rd part of the blog project will be the process on the gloss white spray paint on the model. Then I’ll do a evaluation on what I’ve done so far on the project, and what I can improve on, to keep in mind when I do the final design. 

3D model Robot- part 1: planning and testing design

Today I’m starting my project on making a robot based on inspirational 1950’s Sci-fi art, such artists including Ron Turner and Alexandre Leydenfrost. The theme will be based on the 1950’s Sci-fi, with the project design process made in 3D form.

Planning phase:

I started the process by planning on what my design should be, for experimenting on different mediums and methods. After several drawing sketches, I picked the design that was relatively realistic to do that was close to its theme.

(Sketch design of what the project will be followed on, not as a final design, but as an experimental concept to work from.)

After the I’ve chosen my one of my sketches to work on, I then did a overal disassemble sketch pages that dissect the design in complements. I detail what my design could incorporate, and how it might be archived when I carry this onto creating the model. 

In some areas, I’ve pointed out problematic parts that I’ve found, including how I can improve on creating an alternative solution. When it comes to improving the test design, I can alter areas that weren’t successful in new sketch plannings, developing better designs that can be realistically done. 

(This is a detailed example of how the top half of the design will look when it’s in seperate parts. I’ve made detail analysis on areas that might need changing, and what each part is for in the process.)

Testing phase:

After I’ve done all my sketch planning and evaluation on the chosen test design, I then started to collect materials for the project. 

These include:

Two plant pots (8″)

Tape

LED lights (five lights)

Gloss white spray paint
Sand paper

(Edit: there are more materials that I’m using, but they will be posted onto the second part of the project blog.)
Below are steps that I’ve done for the main body of the design, with annotation on the process.

Step 1: I’ve sanded one side of one of the pots, making sure it’s sanded down smoothly. The other side is left bare, so that it can be a comparable comparison on surface effect when spray painted.

Step 2: doing the same process as step one, I’ve sanded the other pot with a different sandpaper, to see which sanded surface would be best suited for creating a good surface to spray paint on.

Step 3: thread the LED lights from the bottom hole, and tape the power case to the bottom of one of the plant pots, this will be the lower part of the design. Then, tape one LED light to the top middle face of the top pot, this will act as a light source for the eye. Finally, thread the rest through the top plant pot hole, I’ll explain more on theses later.

Step 4: Now tape both pots together, carefully taping it around until both pots are securely held together by the tape.

Step 5: Next, thread the lights in each hole , sticking though one hole, and thread through the other. Do this until you’ve done all the holes, there must be four lights that are symmetrically showing on the top of the pot.

Step 6: Glue any metal object in place on top of the top pot. This will act as the singular eye for the robot, using the fifth light as a light for the eye.

Now that the first part of the test design is done, the second blog will cover the second part of the test design process.