3D model robot- extra 

I did a bit of adjustment to the previous photo, as I want to see whether I can make an impressive colourful picture. I used pro create to add some details like the dessert sand and the glowing neon eye.

Overal, this is way better than the black and white version of my model robot, I like how this version looks more visually striking to look at. Whilst I’ve always liked doing  black and white/ tonal filter art, colour can sometimes make art more appealing to look at from an audience prospective.

Again, thanks to everyone for read this post, if you have any questions, post a comment and I’ll reply back as soon as I can. 😊

3D model robot- part 8 [final part]: Professional final piece picture

The final part on my creation process on building a themed 1950’s robot ends here. From making test sketch designs, to building a prototype and finally creating the final design itself.

For this part, I’ve chosen one of the pictures from part 7 to use as the final piece picture. I used pro create art app to do some few adjustments to the picture, before I finish the project.


1) I loaded the image onto procreate and adjusted the cropping space, making sure the image isn’t too pixilated from expanding the image.
2) I used a cool grey colour and covered the white rectangle line from the back, blending the background to the floor surface. I’ve also tried out a few samples of greys to see which would blend best with the pictures background.

3) I then used a dark grey faded spray colour, making a spray effect on the hills in the background, and the edges to the lower part of the picture. I made several layers of grey spray paint, making each layer darker than the last to make the greys blend from light to dark.

4) finally, I saved the picture and made some effects for the picture, adjusting the brightness and filter effect to a desirable effect. I wanted the picture to capture the feeling of a classic 1950’s sci fi movie style, keeping it within its theme.

Personally, I really enjoyed doing this project, the amount of effort that I’ve done is an achievement that’s even far beyond my experienced skills. This project has pushed me to try harder with my work, challenging me out of my comfort zone to create something on a set deadline. 

Whilst there are always room for improvements with the design and photography skills, and learning from what I need to improve on from the project. 

Thanks to everyone for reading this project blog, and I hope to do more art projects in the near future. ☺️

3D model robot- part 7: photography testing 

These are a few test photography takes on a chosen picture that I wanted to use as a final piece presentation. 

I decided to use the picture below, as my chosen photo to test effects on. I liked how it looked from the angle prospective, so I cropped the image to get make the image size smaller.

Below are different photo effects that I did for the duplicate copies.

3D model robot- part 5: painting and testing techniques

Here’s part five of the 3D model design process, this time I’m focusing on starting to paint the model in plain basecoating. Then I’ll be building this up in several parts, building layers until I get a professional painted model.

Carrying on from part 4, I’ve completely basecoated the model in gloss white spray paint. Whilst it was sort of successful, part of the paint came off due to my incompitence to realise that part of the newspaper sheet was stuck onto the paint whilst drying.

The 135 degree pipes legs were too tedious to glue onto the model, so I’ve made an alternative to use three liquid washer caps. These were more useful to use as they can be glued easily, and they can balance the model without support. 

Now that the whole model is basecoated, I then decided to choose what paints I’ll use for my colour schemes. Using techniques and processes that I’ve previously used in past projects, that are suitable for this project.

Below is my collective picture progress on my painting process for the model.

I’m pretty much impressed with the finished outcome, the model looks really impressive. I tried to keep it in the project theme of 1950’s sci-fi art, not making it too modern in appearance.
My next and final step is to create a background for my model, so I can do some photography work as a final project presentation. I’ll posting updates on the project at some point next week.

[note: I’ve been very busy from a lot of prep work for my art and exams, so I haven’t had much time to do much blogging of late. Hopefully once I’ve done all that, I’ll be going back to posting updates on my Clan pestilence collection, and my on going narrative blog series ‘The Dovaskar legacy’. Hope you guys have a good day 😊]

3D model robot- part 4 [update]

This is just an update blog on what I’ve done so far with the final design model. 

So the pipes I used on the model weren’t as weightless as I thought they were, as they couldn’t hold onto the plant pot by the glue and kept tear off from the bonding. The solution was to use liquid gel cases as the loot of the model, which as you can see from the pic above I’ve only glued one at the moment.

I’ve made extra effort to glue the pots by making a glue barrier around the middle section, just tosecure  the put together. This has resulted in a more stable bonding of the pots to join together, although I’ll need to sand off the glue edgings to make the surface more smoother.

The spray paint process didn’t go as well as I thought, I only had half a small can left of gloss white, which as you can see from the picture above, hasn’t covered much. So I’m hopefully going to get more gloss white spray paint to completely finish off the basecoat stage.

This Friday I’ll be posting part 4 of ‘The Dovaskar Legacy’, I couldn’t do last Friday due to a really busy week, sorry about that. But hopefully I can post part 4 on schedule this time. 

3D model robot- part 4: Improving and creating final design

This part will explain my process from what I’ve learnt from my test design, and starting the process for creating my final design. Whilst the design will be similar, there are a few improvements to the methods and process into creating the final design.

So I started out by looking through my  test design work and the photo above, noting down on the methods/ process/ techniques/ materials  that I used to create the model. I looked at areas that I needed to improve on, and areas that worked well, which can be carried over to my final design.

I felt that tapeing the model together was okay for a prototype practice, but the overal appearance of the model didn’t do it any justice for professional quality. To improve on this, I decided to glue gun parts, so they bond together more effectively, with no visible tampering.

Another area that I felt that needed improving was the legs, as they were really heavy to balance the robots body. The parts were too long, and they kept coming off their tape bonding. So from this, I’ve decided that having just three 135 degree angle pipes on will make the model more balanced on its own without support bars.

Once I’ve seen what I need to do, I made a sketch design of my final model design, using a realistic concept to create and more simplistic alterations to create on the model [note: I haven’t done a picture on the sketch design yet, but I’ll be updating this post later on when I have finalised it]. Once I had a clear visual picture of the design plan, I started to collect my materials and tools that I need to get ready to create my final design model.

Below are the materials I’m using to do the creation process:

• 1x tikka masalas lid cut into two identical parts

• 1x tikka masala bowl, cut the top into a open lid, then cut it into a big circle• 1x plastic shower washer• 3x 135 degree pipes• 2x plant pots

• 3x washers• LED lights (five lights)

Once I’ve collected all the materials for the project, I then started the process on creating my model. Below is a process guid to my build up on my model.

Part 1: I made a small hole in the middle of the top plant pot, I matched this to my shower washer hole to get an accurate fit. This will be the hole for my light to come through, acting as the robots active eye.
Part 2: as I’ve mentioned above, I made a hole for the washer, matching that to the one on the plant pot. I used a hobby knife, and carefully screwed a small hole shape, making sure I don’t make it too big and out of place.

Part 3: once I’ve done making an accurate hole fit, I threaded a light through the hole, to see if it can fit through easily, but not to easily loose. Luckily it fitted just right, so I added the shower washer ring and one washer ring together to create the robots eye.

Once I felt satisfied with the overal result, I removed the light, washer and shower washer for a later stage when I’ll re-thread it back through.

Part 4: I made alteration to the tikka lid like my previous blog post on the project, making two identical lid shapes. Theses will act as the eye lids for the robots eye, so it can add some realistic visual presentation to the model.

Part 5: for the tikka masala bowl, I cut the bottom of the bowl with a hobby knife to create a hole on the bottom of the bowl. I flipped it over so I can use it as the robots top part of its head, showing its electrical lights on top, as though it’s the robots man made brain.

Part 6: the washer on the 135 degree pipes will be used as the ring of the outer eye, just to give some more visual interest to the robots eye. This will be glue gunned to the eye, since the material for the pipe washer is easy to bond with plastic.

Part 7: once all of the practice parts were done, I glued the plastic shower washer on first, so that I can fit the washer rings and pipe washer on without any tedious obstructions. Once they’ve bonded with the plastic pot, then I glued the first eye lid onto the model. Carefully placing the lid on without being burnt by the glues heat.

I then. Made a small plastic card rectangle and glued that on the right side of the model, with two washer rings glued on it. This will add some detail on the robot, since it looked plain in its current stage.

Part 8: for the pipes, I glued all three of them on a triangle position, as visualised in my sketch design. The process was tedious, as one of the legs kept falling off from their glued position, so I’ll try and see if I can find a way to correct that problem. 

At some points I’ll be adding some ball parts to the legs as sphere, this will give the illusion that it moves on wheeled balls, rather than feet.

Part 9: I added the second eye lid on the lower half of the eye, using the same technique as the top eye lid. I then glued the tikka masala bowl on top of the bowl using a glue gun, carefully keeping it on the top pot lid in place. 

Part 10: For the LED lights, I threaded the lights through the lower pot, and out through the same hole position on the top pot. One of the light is inside the pot to be threaded as the eye light.

Once the eye light was tapped, I taped the battery pack on the bottom plant pot, keeping it in place and out of visual view of he model.

Part 11: once all the lights are threaded and are kept in place securely, I carefully glued the two pots together with accuracy to bond without massive gaps in view. I had a tedious task of correcting this step a few times due to the glue drying too quickly, but eventually I was able to bond the pots together.

So far the overal model looks really good, I’m getting confident in the project so far, and I have no doubts on that the tricky parts have been completed. My only note on the process is that the glue gun was very awkward to use, it’s very tedious trying to get any glue to come out, and it drys very quickly if the process is stalked to a few minutes.

In part 5 for building my 3D model robot design, I’ll be using a spray paint process, and doing some acrylic painting on the model, using different techniques and process on the model.

3D model robot-part 3: test design part 3

Continuing on from the last part in my 3D model design series, this time I’ve spray painted the whole body and legs seperatly, to see how the model looked once basecoated.

The tape didn’t really go down well, it looked odd from the basecoat. I originally thought it might look smooth but wrinkled once I applied the spray paint, but from the outcome it doesn’t seem to meet my expectations.

However, I was pleased that the top half of the model looks really good in the basecoat. I liked how the tikka lid and the eye stand out a lot more, it looked really smooth as a finishing touch that blended all the parts together. 

I’m also pleased that my sprayed leg parts have overal looked good, surprisingly it was the one that wasn’t sanded that did well. The sanded one looked a bit too rough and scratched to suit my ideal design choice, but I’ll keep it as a reference for future planning.

So for my planning on my final design, I’ll super glue the parts, rather than tapeing them together. That way I’ll have a professional presentation appearance to the model, with some alterations to help it look believable.

Next part will be about the what I’ve Learnt from the test design, and how can transfer improvements to the final design planning.

3D model robot- part 2: testing part 2

Carrying on from the last post, I’ve added the second part to the test design experiment phase. This part focuses on the top part of the model, adding parts to the head of the robot and the legs.


One tikka curry packaging lid and bowl.

135 degree pipes and 34mm pipes (x4 each)
One pipe washer.

Making the head:

Step 1: cut a small hole in the tikka packaging bowl, and tape it on top of the upper plant pot. Make sure the LED lights are within the bowl, and tape the bowl tightly so that its not easily loosen.

Step 2: cut the lid in two halfs, and snip the two ends in an angle. Also, cut the top of the lid in a half moon shape.

Step 3: tape the first half of the lid on the top pot securely, make sure it’s firmly in place by the tape. 

Step 4: glue gun the other lid onto power of the eye, as though it’s an eyelid. The reason why I’ve did the two lids differently was because I wanted to see what surface would suit my test design. I’ve done three surfaces (1: tape 2: sanded lid plastic 3: clear plastic lid) to test which surface would be suitable when applying spray paint.
Step 5: add the pipe washer into the eye, this will help to define the eye a lot more. 

Making the legs:

Step 1: make two identical sized pipes (saw them to your preferred measurement), and secure the 135 degree pipes at both ends of your two pipes (I’ve sanded one leg to do the same technique as explained in step 4 on making the head.)

Step 2: like the plastic lids, tape the legs onto the lower plant pot, until they are securely in place. It can be fiddler to do, so take your time when doing this part. 

Step 3: tape two identical pipes together, these will act as the base for the robot to sit on.

Overal design look:

Now that all of the parts are added,  my 3rd part of the blog project will be the process on the gloss white spray paint on the model. Then I’ll do a evaluation on what I’ve done so far on the project, and what I can improve on, to keep in mind when I do the final design. 

3D model Robot- part 1: planning and testing design

Today I’m starting my project on making a robot based on inspirational 1950’s Sci-fi art, such artists including Ron Turner and Alexandre Leydenfrost. The theme will be based on the 1950’s Sci-fi, with the project design process made in 3D form.

Planning phase:

I started the process by planning on what my design should be, for experimenting on different mediums and methods. After several drawing sketches, I picked the design that was relatively realistic to do that was close to its theme.

(Sketch design of what the project will be followed on, not as a final design, but as an experimental concept to work from.)

After the I’ve chosen my one of my sketches to work on, I then did a overal disassemble sketch pages that dissect the design in complements. I detail what my design could incorporate, and how it might be archived when I carry this onto creating the model. 

In some areas, I’ve pointed out problematic parts that I’ve found, including how I can improve on creating an alternative solution. When it comes to improving the test design, I can alter areas that weren’t successful in new sketch plannings, developing better designs that can be realistically done. 

(This is a detailed example of how the top half of the design will look when it’s in seperate parts. I’ve made detail analysis on areas that might need changing, and what each part is for in the process.)

Testing phase:

After I’ve done all my sketch planning and evaluation on the chosen test design, I then started to collect materials for the project. 

These include:

Two plant pots (8″)


LED lights (five lights)

Gloss white spray paint
Sand paper

(Edit: there are more materials that I’m using, but they will be posted onto the second part of the project blog.)
Below are steps that I’ve done for the main body of the design, with annotation on the process.

Step 1: I’ve sanded one side of one of the pots, making sure it’s sanded down smoothly. The other side is left bare, so that it can be a comparable comparison on surface effect when spray painted.

Step 2: doing the same process as step one, I’ve sanded the other pot with a different sandpaper, to see which sanded surface would be best suited for creating a good surface to spray paint on.

Step 3: thread the LED lights from the bottom hole, and tape the power case to the bottom of one of the plant pots, this will be the lower part of the design. Then, tape one LED light to the top middle face of the top pot, this will act as a light source for the eye. Finally, thread the rest through the top plant pot hole, I’ll explain more on theses later.

Step 4: Now tape both pots together, carefully taping it around until both pots are securely held together by the tape.

Step 5: Next, thread the lights in each hole , sticking though one hole, and thread through the other. Do this until you’ve done all the holes, there must be four lights that are symmetrically showing on the top of the pot.

Step 6: Glue any metal object in place on top of the top pot. This will act as the singular eye for the robot, using the fifth light as a light for the eye.

Now that the first part of the test design is done, the second blog will cover the second part of the test design process.