3D model robot- part 2: testing part 2

Carrying on from the last post, I’ve added the second part to the test design experiment phase. This part focuses on the top part of the model, adding parts to the head of the robot and the legs.


One tikka curry packaging lid and bowl.

135 degree pipes and 34mm pipes (x4 each)
One pipe washer.

Making the head:

Step 1: cut a small hole in the tikka packaging bowl, and tape it on top of the upper plant pot. Make sure the LED lights are within the bowl, and tape the bowl tightly so that its not easily loosen.

Step 2: cut the lid in two halfs, and snip the two ends in an angle. Also, cut the top of the lid in a half moon shape.

Step 3: tape the first half of the lid on the top pot securely, make sure it’s firmly in place by the tape. 

Step 4: glue gun the other lid onto power of the eye, as though it’s an eyelid. The reason why I’ve did the two lids differently was because I wanted to see what surface would suit my test design. I’ve done three surfaces (1: tape 2: sanded lid plastic 3: clear plastic lid) to test which surface would be suitable when applying spray paint.
Step 5: add the pipe washer into the eye, this will help to define the eye a lot more. 

Making the legs:

Step 1: make two identical sized pipes (saw them to your preferred measurement), and secure the 135 degree pipes at both ends of your two pipes (I’ve sanded one leg to do the same technique as explained in step 4 on making the head.)

Step 2: like the plastic lids, tape the legs onto the lower plant pot, until they are securely in place. It can be fiddler to do, so take your time when doing this part. 

Step 3: tape two identical pipes together, these will act as the base for the robot to sit on.

Overal design look:

Now that all of the parts are added,  my 3rd part of the blog project will be the process on the gloss white spray paint on the model. Then I’ll do a evaluation on what I’ve done so far on the project, and what I can improve on, to keep in mind when I do the final design. 


3D model Robot- part 1: planning and testing design

Today I’m starting my project on making a robot based on inspirational 1950’s Sci-fi art, such artists including Ron Turner and Alexandre Leydenfrost. The theme will be based on the 1950’s Sci-fi, with the project design process made in 3D form.

Planning phase:

I started the process by planning on what my design should be, for experimenting on different mediums and methods. After several drawing sketches, I picked the design that was relatively realistic to do that was close to its theme.

(Sketch design of what the project will be followed on, not as a final design, but as an experimental concept to work from.)

After the I’ve chosen my one of my sketches to work on, I then did a overal disassemble sketch pages that dissect the design in complements. I detail what my design could incorporate, and how it might be archived when I carry this onto creating the model. 

In some areas, I’ve pointed out problematic parts that I’ve found, including how I can improve on creating an alternative solution. When it comes to improving the test design, I can alter areas that weren’t successful in new sketch plannings, developing better designs that can be realistically done. 

(This is a detailed example of how the top half of the design will look when it’s in seperate parts. I’ve made detail analysis on areas that might need changing, and what each part is for in the process.)

Testing phase:

After I’ve done all my sketch planning and evaluation on the chosen test design, I then started to collect materials for the project. 

These include:

Two plant pots (8″)


LED lights (five lights)

Gloss white spray paint
Sand paper

(Edit: there are more materials that I’m using, but they will be posted onto the second part of the project blog.)
Below are steps that I’ve done for the main body of the design, with annotation on the process.

Step 1: I’ve sanded one side of one of the pots, making sure it’s sanded down smoothly. The other side is left bare, so that it can be a comparable comparison on surface effect when spray painted.

Step 2: doing the same process as step one, I’ve sanded the other pot with a different sandpaper, to see which sanded surface would be best suited for creating a good surface to spray paint on.

Step 3: thread the LED lights from the bottom hole, and tape the power case to the bottom of one of the plant pots, this will be the lower part of the design. Then, tape one LED light to the top middle face of the top pot, this will act as a light source for the eye. Finally, thread the rest through the top plant pot hole, I’ll explain more on theses later.

Step 4: Now tape both pots together, carefully taping it around until both pots are securely held together by the tape.

Step 5: Next, thread the lights in each hole , sticking though one hole, and thread through the other. Do this until you’ve done all the holes, there must be four lights that are symmetrically showing on the top of the pot.

Step 6: Glue any metal object in place on top of the top pot. This will act as the singular eye for the robot, using the fifth light as a light for the eye.

Now that the first part of the test design is done, the second blog will cover the second part of the test design process.