After five days (18th April) of getting this model cleaned, glued, primed and painted, I was finally able to finish it with arguably one of my best painted models to date. Originally I was planning on taking my time painting this model, but I got too invested in painting it with a lot of enthusiasm.
Recently, I’ve purchased my first Forge World kit from Warhammer World from the HH section. There were a few characters to choose from but unfortunately my budget was limited, so I had to choose between Alexis Pollux or Sevatar. I went for Sevatar as I’ve read more about him than Alexis in the fiction of HH, I liked his story in ‘The Prince of Crows’ (by Aaron Dembski Bowden).
The kit itself is a gorgeously detailed mini diorama featuring the convict himself, Sevatar and a fallen marine in a bloody mess (I’ll mention which legion I’ve painted for this poor fellow later on). Whilst plastic kits by GW are fantastic with details and textures by today’s standards, FW kits on the other hand really show their crispy details and exquisite sculpting.
Before I painted my first resin kit, I’d decided to watch video guides on how to prepare Forge World kits. My main two sources of guidance was the Forge World kit preparation leaflet included in the kit, and a YouTuber by the name of Leakycheese. A man of experience with a wealth of useful tips and guidance on preparing resin kits, he’s a great source of help for newcomers. I have a link to his YouTube channel below if your interested to see his videos:
https://www.youtube.com/user/leakycheese
Preparing the resin kit
Like all resin models, before assembling and glueing is done, I had to check if all of the parts were in the box as well as the condition of the pieces. Luckily for my kit there were no moulding problems and major warping issues (apart from the dagger and staff).
Again, I’d recommend watching Leakycheese’s video on how to prepare your resin kit to know what to do if a problem arises from the parts. Cleaning the model was done using an old tooth brush (clean it first for hygiene sake) and a tub of warm water with washing up liquid. Since the model may have some greasy surfaces on the parts (the shiny surfaces that feels greasy), it’s best to remove with warm water and scrubbed with a tooth brush. This is important when it comes to priming your model, it will not apply well on said greasy surfaces. For a best outcome, leave the model parts in warm water over night, or for a day if it’s bigger parts.
Once left over time and taken out to dry for about an hour or so, the model should be ready for priming.
Painting Sevatar
The colour scheme I’ve used for Sevatar and the base were done by painting Sevatar first, then the base and the diorama base. This way, I wouldn’t have to worry about making any mistakes as I’m working from top down, rather than base to top. Painting Sevatar was done using the Night Lords Legion colour scheme in ‘How to paint Citadel miniatures: Burning of Prospero’, with some minor changes and additional colours. I used it as my main guide to painting a Night Lords Legion colour scheme, along with some visual inspiration which I’ve referenced in my mind.
Most of these visual imagery are from Neil Roberts artwork in the HH series, and FW own painted model of Sevatar.
Armour-
- Basecoat the model in Matt black primer, followed by two thin coats of Kantor Blue.
- Shade the recesses with Nul Oil.
- Highlight the edges and lightning cracks with Ailotic Blue.
- Finish off the armour with an edge highlight of Lothren Blue for the edge points and cracks for the lightning effect. Then a final touch up of Model colour Off-White for the thunder cracks.
Eye lenses-
- Paint Model colour Off-White on the the eyes lenses, two or three coats may need to be applied for consistency.
- Use Lahima Matt mixed with 1/3 Model colour Off-White and Model colour Plastic green. The paint should be translucent like water, and apply it with a small brush on the white eye lenses.
Bronze-
- Basecoat the armour trims white a mix of Model colour Brass and Model Colour Brown (1/2)
- Shade the bronze with Reikland Fleshade.
- Edge highlight the trims with Model colour Brass.
Winged helmet-
- Basecoat the wings in Khorne Red.
- Shade using Reikland Fleshade.
- Highlight the wings with Evil Sunz Red.
- Final edge highlight of Ryza rust.
Skulls-
- Basecoat the the skulls in Model colour Off-White.
- Shade the skulls in Reikland Fleshade.
- Final highlight of Model colour Off-White.
Cloak-
- Basecoat the cloak in Model colour Flat Brown.
- Shade the cloak in Reikland Fleshade.
- Mix 1/3 Model colour Off-White and Flat Brown as a highlight.
- Finally, add more Model colour Off-White to the mix as a edge highlight.
weapons/ silver areas-
- Basecoat the blades and silver areas in Model colour Boltgun metal.
- Shade the areas in Nul Oil.
After painting Sevatar, he ended up like this……
I like the dark blue armour as it’s very simple to achieve without any complex colour scheme. The contrast of colours benefits the model appearance without it looking too dull and confusing.
My goal was to stay true to the source material of visual depictions of Sevatar, but also try to improve my painting skills to a finer quality. I’ve just about achieved it, but a I think I could’ve improved on painting the chain glaive as it lacks much colour variety to make it look appealing visually (but Blood for the Blood God at least makes it look interesting).
I think I’ll finish this post off here, as I don’t like to drag the post on too long. However, I hope you guys have enjoyed this post and found something new today! Any suggestions and feed back is much appreciated.
Oh and before I finish this post, something for the Dark Angels to look at 😏………..
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Thank you for reading this post. If you have any questions, post a comment below and I’ll reply back as soon as I can. Thanks!
-Bjorn
The Tidal Leviathan 